Cuisine

A tour of Iranian food — kebabs, stews and soups, vegetarian options, sweets, the four traditional breads, and the teas and cold drinks to wash it all down.

Iranian cuisine blends ancient traditions with modern influences, reflecting the country’s diverse cultural heritage and geography. It is marked by fragrant spices, fresh herbs, fruits and vegetables, and a range of meats including lamb, beef and chicken.

Popular dishes

Kebabs are a favourite across Iran. They come in many forms and can be made with various meats — lamb, chicken and beef — usually marinated in a mixture of spices, yogurt and lemon juice, then grilled over an open flame. Kebabs, along with stews and other dishes, are commonly served with rice, one of the most important staples in Iranian cooking. They are known for their delicate flavours and textures and are often seasoned with saffron, cinnamon and other spices. The two most popular are Kebab Koobideh, made from ground meat, and Joojeh Kebab, made from chicken.

Stews, known as khoresht, are another cornerstone of the national cuisine. These curry-like dishes are typically made with meat, vegetables, lentils and herbs. Popular examples include Qaymeh, a lamb and split-pea stew with tomatoes, onion and dried lime, garnished with golden, thinly sliced crispy potatoes; Fesenjan, a rich stew of chicken or duck with pomegranate paste and walnuts; and Qorma Sabzi, made from a mixture of aromatic herbs and vegetables such as parsley, coriander, leeks and spinach, cooked with red beans, dried limes and lamb.

Soups, like Aash, are thick, hearty dishes often packed with legumes, herbs and sometimes meat. Popular varieties include Aash Reshteh, a thick noodle soup with beans and greens, and Aash Jo, a barley soup.

Vegetarian dishes

Despite the richness and diversity of Iranian cuisine, vegetarian options are limited, especially at restaurants. Traditional meals lean heavily on meat — particularly lamb, chicken and beef — which is central to many iconic dishes. Even dishes that include vegetables are often not vegetarian: many stews and soups contain small pieces of meat, and some apparently vegetable-based dishes use animal broths in their preparation.

That said, vegetarian dishes do exist. Khoresht Bademjan is a flavourful aubergine stew, enjoyed with or without rice, in which the aubergine is simmered in a tomato-based sauce with onions, spices and sometimes potatoes or green beans — a vegetarian adaptation of the original beef version. Adas Polo is a rice dish combining lentils with the sweetness of raisins and fragrant spices such as turmeric and cumin. Another common choice is Kuku Sabzi, an omelette made with fresh herbs and spices, typically served with bread and yogurt.

Appetisers & desserts

Iranian cuisine also includes a variety of side dishes, appetisers and desserts. Popular appetisers include Borani, a yogurt and herb dip, and Kashk Bademjan, a creamy dip made by blending roasted aubergine with garlic, onions and whey, topped with caramelised onions and mint. Desserts run to pastries, cakes, sweets and cookies, such as Sohan, a traditional saffron brittle toffee; Gaz, an Iranian nougat that originated in Isfahan; and Noon Khamei, the Iranian cream puff.

Traditional breads

Bread, known as naan or noon in Farsi, is one of the most important staples in Iran. The country’s bread-making traditions are unique and distinctive, featuring four primary flatbreads: Sangak, Barbari, Lavash and Taftoon.

Sangak is a traditional stone-baked bread, typically 70–80cm long and either triangular or rectangular, named for the pebbles (sangak) used in baking. Made from whole wheat flour, the dough is baked in a dome-shaped oven over a bed of hot pebbles, which gives it a distinctive texture and appearance. Some bakeries add toppings such as sesame seeds, poppy seeds or dried herbs.

Barbari is known for its thick, fluffy interior and crispy crust. It originates from the Barbar region in north-eastern Iran, near Afghanistan, and is formed into a long oval and dusted with roomal, a flour glaze that gives it a delicate, airy interior and a beautiful golden crust. Poppy, nigella or sesame seeds are often added before baking in traditional tandoor ovens or, more commonly nowadays, modern rotating conveyor-belt ovens. Each loaf is about 70cm long and 25cm wide.

Lavash is a soft, thin, pliable flatbread, widely used to wrap kebabs, cheese and other fillings, making it ideal for sandwiches. It bakes quickly thanks to its thinness but also dries out fast, becoming brittle and hard if not eaten fresh.

Taftoon is similar to lavash but slightly thicker — a round, soft flatbread made from white or whole wheat flour, milk, yoghurt and eggs, baked in a clay oven for a unique texture and flavour.

Bakeries, known locally as nanvaii or nanva, are often busy, so it pays to know their schedules and how they operate. There are numerous bakeries throughout the city, and you can usually find one within a short walk of home. Each typically specialises in just one type of bread and operates at set times — early morning, midday and early evening — so fresh bread is available throughout the day. Queues outside popular bakeries are common, especially at peak hours, and it can sometimes take half an hour or more to reach the front.

At sangak and barbari bakeries there are normally three queues: two for men and one for women. One of the men’s queues is for buying a single loaf, the other for larger quantities — so you may receive your bread before someone who has been waiting longer.

Drinks & beverages

Iranian cuisine also features a variety of drinks, whether to accompany a meal or to enjoy on their own.

Tea (Chai) is by far the most popular and most consumed hot beverage in Iran. Dating back to the Qajar period, Iranian tea is served black, lightly brewed, sometimes with a variety of spices, in small cups, often with sugar, rock candy or dates. A distinctive habit is to drink tea while gently holding a sugar cube in the mouth, letting the sweetness dissolve gradually with each sip — an art many foreigners find fascinating.

As an alternative, many Iranians drink Damnoosh (herbal tea) for its health benefits and its reputed relief of headaches, insomnia, the common cold and even stress. Many varieties are available, the most popular perhaps being Panirak (mallow), Gol Gav Zaban (echium), Babooneh (chamomile), Avishan (thyme), Behlimoo (lemon beebrush) and Ustukhudus (lavender).

Among cold drinks there are many favourites, including Doogh, a traditional yoghurt-based drink often flavoured with mint and especially popular in the hot summer months; carbonated versions are also available. Fresh juices are another favourite, with a plethora of juice bars across Qum serving freshly squeezed carrot, apple, orange, pomegranate, cantaloupe, honeydew melon, watermelon and more — you can also request a combination of juices or one of the various milkshakes on offer.

Sharbat — a general term for a wide range of sweet drinks made from fruits, flowers or herbs — is also very popular in summer. Two distinctly Iranian examples are Sharbat-e Khakshir and Tokhm Sharbati. Sharbat-e Khakshir is made from flixweed seeds mixed with water, rose water and ice, often sweetened with sugar or honey; it is prized for its thirst-quenching, cooling properties, and the seeds are reported to help regulate blood glucose and support the liver and digestive system. Tokhm Sharbati, another rehydrating, refreshing drink, is made by adding basil seeds to any sweet, flavoured syrup with water; like flixweed, basil seeds carry numerous health benefits and are packed with vitamins and minerals.